A strenuous climb to the base of an active volcano, Mt Arenal

Phil in contemplation at the base of Mt Arenal

Phil's version of Day 91/15 May

More time in the pool and Jacuzzi before setting out to the National Park for a walk at the base of the volcano, but not before the hotel shakes palpably in the grip of an earth tremor.

the view from our hotel to the volcano

That this is an area where the earth’s core is closer than most is confirmed during the pleasantly uncrowded pathways a few kilometres from the cone. 

As we pass a sign advising ‘area of extreme volcanic activity – proceed at your own risk’ strange breathing and rumbling is audible. 

I thought it was a logging team in the forest, Allie imagined horses panting after a long gallop. But it is a combination of the periodic expulsion of gases from the crater combined with huge rocks, blown from the rim, cascading down the western slope like leap-frogging footballs dwarfed by the scale of the ash scree. 

We narrowly avoid getting caught in a torrential thunder storm which lasts for the 25 km drive to our next destination, a café in Muelle where we are to meet the Costa Rican balloon pilot, Esteban. Tonight accommodation is more basic, being part of the horse stables which Esteban and his wife run for tourists in conjunction with balloon flights. The simple room initially even lacks electricity as a result of the storm, though power is restored in time to keep the fan circulating the hot and humid air.

Allie's version

DAY 91: Tuesday, 15^th of May

A relaxing morning by the pool and an exciting walk to the Arenal Volcano

I needed a break and this morning is perfect for doing just that. We get up at a leisurely time, enjoy a nice breakfast and relax the morning hours by the pool – or with the compi doing internet stuff (they even have wireless lan here!). We check out at noon and drive to the Arenal National Park. It’s time for an interesting two hours walk to the base of this VERY active volcano. The last major explosion was only in 1992 and what I hear and see makes me think twice whether I want to be really near this thing. 

As we walk along the ‘Las Coladas Trail’ which takes us to the lava flows of the last eruptions, we suddenly hear some strange and frightening noises. 

It sounds like the heavy panting of exhausted horses combined with a quarry explosion. Looking up the perfectly conic shaped volcano we can see smoke rising from the sides. 

Taking a closer look we find that those actually are stones rolling down the steep slopes from the top. I quickly get out the National Parks brochure and study the instructions:

‘Through the years this has been an active volcano. Frequently it has experimented explosions with incandescent rocks, ashes and lava. These eruptions are very spectacular but should be observed far away to avoid accidents.’ 

Well, I think it would be a bit difficult at this stage to be far away.  We are indeed quite lucky today: the volcano doesn’t really  explode but instead it renders for a few minutes a fantastic view to the mountain top. Arenal is not as high as the others volcanoes near Tuckers place but rising 1633meters straight up from sea level, it’s a very impressive sight. 

the fuming Arenal volcano

Walking back we take the ‘Heliconias Trail’ a short nature trail with a few explanation boards. As in so many countries we find the English translation so poorly written that we don’t understand a word. 

Here is just one example of a quotation from Paul Thoreau (and whoever knows the proper meaning, please let me know!): “The time is not but the current in the one which I go fishing”. Ok?!? At least our timing is perfect. As soon as we get back to the car, the afternoon rains start.

On our way back we stop at the small town of La Fortuna in order to post our cards, but the post officers decide to shut the place just a minute before we arrive. Phil was about to send all officials to the moon, but I try to calm him down. 

beautiful orchids on the way

At 5.15 we are supposed to meet Esteban, Tuckers local pilot for a briefing about tomorrows flight. Esteban arrives totally soaked having just been on a horse riding trip. He says he will just quickly get changed and he’d be back in 20mins. But we don’t see him for the next 90minutes. In the meantime we eat, drink and drink again. Finally he arrives and he takes us down to ‘the ranch’. This is the place where Tucker keeps her 49 horses (and I bet another 12 dogs), a dog-pig (yes, it’s a pig but it believes to be a dog, you got it?!?) and 2 balloons. 

dinner?

There is no electricity when we arrive, but tons of insects and cockroaches. This clearly is NOT my man’s favourite hotel. In fact he tells me with all the seriousness an Englishman could possibly have: “If you ever invite me to go on a camping trip, it will mean instant divorce!” Well, how about camping in Cuba then? I ask with a smile.