PHIL:
Day 79/3 May
Country number 94 for me and number 25 for Allie
with a very brief hop across the plateau above Urabamba in Jeff’s very
dilapidated US-built balloon.
Rather disappointing that in such perfect
conditions, with the clouds gradually clearing from the surrounding mountains,
he chooses to land after only five minutes because the balloon has not flown
for 20 months and is not licensed or insured.
A pre-flight ancient Quechua ritual of holding three coca
leaves up in an offering to the mountain gods is followed by an in-flight
scattering of more leaves to propitiate the spirits of the weather.
In downtown Urubamba
a parade combines Catholic crucifixes with pagan masks and dances with woven
whips. It is the festival of Tres Cruces with wild-looking half-men complete
with leggings, condor feathers and woollen capes escorting shrines to the
Virgin Mary carried by besuited elders of the community.
At the Plaza de Armas
the priest gives a long sermon whilst the performers drink large quantities of
alcohol.
One of the pagan figures lunges at the padre and his colleagues lash
him mercilessly with their scourges. A solitary drunk berates us in Quechua and
for a moment looks as if he might pursue us. Alcohol abuse amongst the rural
population is clearly a major factor in Peru .
Our efforts to book places on the train to Aguas
Calientes, the only access point for Machu
Picchu , pays off after much discussion and a taxi ride
to the station in Ollyantentambo to pay
for scarce and expensive tickets. There is lots of evidence that the Peruvians
are squeezing every possible dollar out of their few tourists following a lean
year of political unrest.
The afternoon is spent taking a taxi to the
remote and dilapidated village
of Maras and a salt
spring which has been a source of salt since Inca times. Pisarro apparently
owned the rights to the many salt pans ranked like rice terraces on the
hillside.
A harvest festival with fireworks and ‘chicha’ maize beer was in full
swing with old ladies in white stove-pipe hats, one of whom dragged me onto the
dance floor and offered a moustachioed kiss after several wild minutes dancing.
ALLIE: DAY 79: Thursday, 3rd
of May
Ballooning in Peru, a procession in Urubamba and a visit to the salt
pans
I feel so much better! Finally a
good nights sleep. No barking dogs, no disco – just the sound of the little
stream next to our hostel. Jeff and his team pick us up at 7am and we drive up
to the take off site on top of the plains.
His crew unpacks the balloon. Oh
dear! The kit looks better then the Bolivian ones but far from being
up-to-date. It’s an American built Head AX9-118 (this won’t mean anything to
you I do realize, neither did it tell me anything) with a wooden burner grip
and adventurous looking fuel system.
Phil does the inflation and without any
further checks we take off at 3800meters near the salt pans of Salineros. Oh,
but not before we did a prayer to the mountain Gods!
Jeff seems to be really
into that kind of thing and so each of us has to hold 3 leaves of coca, say a
prayer and then hide the leaves underneath a rock.
This is only part I of the
whole ceremony. Part II follows up in the air, when Jeff scatters a hand full
of leaves into the air from the balloon.
The light unfortunately is not very
good yet and Jeff decides he only wants to do a short hop to the next field (he
hasn’t flown for nearly 2 years!!) even though the winds and the countryside are
perfect.
What a shame! So after only 7minutes in the air, and at least 10 pilot
light failures, he calls for this crew to help with the landing. Oh well, a new
country in the logbook: Phil’s number 94 and my no. 26!
After landing the sun comes out
and illuminates the landscape into the most stunning colours. We should be up
in the air! Anyway, we learn more stories from Jeff, like this one: the locals
– according to him - only shag when they are totally drunk.
And since this is
the time of the festivals and procession, it’s also the time to drink and
dance. (As we find later today, there might be a lot going on in the bedrooms
tonight!)
We return to our pension for
breakfast and then head out for an exploration of Urubamba town. And we are so
lucky: we bump into a magnificent procession of 5 crosses, wild dancers and
musicians. The festival is called festival of the cross but the masks and
dances look very pagan to us and are probably a reminiscent of a harvest
festival. The town itself is also really pleasant with lots of traditional
adobe built houses and a lovely church square in the centre.
Our plans to visit Machu Picchu
tomorrow morning by train turn into a bit of a nightmare: the train doesn’t
stop anymore at Urubamba and we have to take a taxi to the next town called
Ollantaytambo where we have to buy the tickets today. We are told nearly all
trains are already sold out, but the bloody train company can’t be bothered to put
on more wagons. When we finally manage to get tickets they are an incredible
224 US Dollars for the two of us for only a 2hours round journey. What a rip
off! And we know that we will need to pay for another taxi tomorrow, plus the
entrance fee and a minibus ride up the top.
A short beer brake at the sunny
courtyard and fare well to Jeff, then we take a taxi up to the salt pans of
Salineros (very near our take off site). The extra money to do this trip turns
out to be really worth it: a thousand white salt terraces are perched into a
narrow valley reminding you rather of the rice terraces of South China.
This is
fantastic, but even better is the party of the local Salineros workers that
have a dance and drink party at their little mountain hut. We are invited to
drink some of their foamy and suspiciously alcoholic looking ‘Chicha’
(fermented corn beer). Before we have the chance to come up with some excuses, Phil
is being dragged out to the dancing arena by an old lady with an impressive
stove pipe hat.
The band plays a song that goes on forever and I bet Phil was
finding it hard to keep up with the rhythm of the lady. I in the meantime tried
to hide behind our bag and camera to avoid being asked to dance with some of
the already completely drunken looking lads that wishfully eyed at me. So this
town must be very busy in about 9 months time!
A short visit to a large
cathedral in the small hill town of Maras completes this worthwhile tour and
our day. The local farmers all chase their cattle back home, so a mixture of
goats, bulls and donkeys (burros) block the roads as they walk giving me a
chance to take last pictures of this beautiful scenery.
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