Arrival in Cuba and first impressions

CUBA

Phil's version: Day 94/18 May

Street art in Havana

Our last country, Cuba, after a brief flight from San Jose. Our planned link-up with a Belgian friend whose husband is the local Interbrew  boss goes awry – mainly because she assumes the baggage will take an hour to arrive but it’s there in 5 minutes so, despite us waiting for a while in Arrivals, she misses us by 15 minutes. We go to ‘Plan B’ and get a taxi to the elegantly restored Hotel Florida in the old city. 
Allie and I get close to a row because she insists on quizzing the taxi driver about issues I think might be sensitive (like Castro’s health) and then in the hotel reception she obliquely refers to another hotel she has seen in Lonely Planet which has a swimming pool – about the only facility the ‘Florida’ lacks. She goes out into the crowded pedestrian streets, allegedly to look for sandals but probably to avoid further inflammatory exchanges.

Phil relaxing at Havana's beach front

 I have a meeting with someone from the British Embassy to discuss the possibilities of getting ballooning going in Cuba – probably a non-starter until Castro’s situation is defined one way or another. The outcome is not very positive mainly, I suspect, because the Cubans are into multi-million dollar projects rather than ballooning’s ‘mom-and-pop’ business. Still, the Embassy at least show willing and provide a few contacts.

Dinner ‘al fresco’ in the leafy Plaza de Armas is, of necessity, proceeded by a couple of mojitos but we are later reminded that it is a Hispanic habit to party late as groups of shouting, singing revellers continue to keep us awake well past midnight.

Welcome to our final destination: Cuba!

Farewell to Costa Rica and off with TACA to Havana Cuba at 10.55. It’s a relaxed two hours flight and we even happen to sit next to the Ambassador of Germany. We start a bit of a discussion as to whether he is the German Ambassador to Cuba or the Cuban Ambassador to Germany. I believe in the latter since he didn’t look German at all with his dark skin and rather long nose – but we didn’t ask him and so we’ll never know. 

on approach to Havana

Anyway, immigration and luggage are all very quick and efficient at San Marti International Airport.

We didn’t even have to fill out tedious papers for immigration or customs. It’s just a stamp in your visa and that’s it. In we are. Cuba, our last country on this tour and one of the very last communist states in the world.

Cuba was a ‘must’ for both of us. Who knows what will happen when Castro dies? For sure it will change and the Americans will try to get in with their fast food chains and big hotels. 

driving into the old city

We were supposed to be met by Fabienne, a Belgium lady that Phil knows from ballooning in Burma, but we can’t see her (as it later turns out, she came 1 hour later since she said it would always take an hour to get luggage!). What a pity! So we take a cab. The first impressions are already fascinating: ancient 40 years old American cars, the huge bulky ‘camel bus’, colourful houses in Art deco and an amazing mix of people on the streets. 

Elegant colonial houses

As we come further downtown towards the old city the houses get bigger and more elegant and everywhere you see houses in the process of being restored or renovated. We are booked at the ‘Hotel Florida’ in the centre of Havana vieja. This lovely old courtyard hotel was built in 1836 and used to be the residence of renowned families and rich businessmen. From our little balcony we have the perfect view to watch life passing by in the pedestrian street below. Music sounds from every corner and the atmosphere is very laid back and friendly.

live music everywhere

I venture out to the narrow lanes to look for some slippers (mine have been ‘put away’ by Tuckers cleaning lady and never been returned) but the shops are a bit desolate. Most of the sandals are made of plastic but still cost a lot of money. Probably cheap imports from China.

I need some water and enter a small restaurant. The guy asks me whether I am from Germany. I say ‘yes’ and he answers in German explaining that he had been living in Erfurt before 1990 for 8 years and that he would love to go back to Europe.
But he hasn’t got a passport and no money and no wife! “Nur Gott kann helfen!” (only God can help) he sighs and looks at me with hope. Sorry man, I am already married but I’ll buy some bottles of water from you.

At 6pm we meet Monica Lopez from the British Embassy in Havana.

Phil had contacted her earlier on to ask about the possibilities of establishing a ballooning business here and asked her from some information. We have an interesting 1hrs chat and learn a bit more about the situation in this country.

.. and old chevreolets

Nobody is allowed make business contacts unless he has a business visa (new rule) and making business is – what would you expect – very slow. It may take up to 5 years to get something up and running and it need a lot of patience and money. The good news is that the government has just decided to invest 200 Million Dollars for new projects in tourism. Monica definitely agrees that a rides business somewhere in Cuba is a great idea and that it could work.

harbour front of Havana

It’s still light outside at 7pm when we finish our meeting. We stroll along the pier and the harbour side. But I am shocked: I have never seen dirtier waters then these. The water is totally black from oil and grease, but surprisingly there a loads of boys out fishing! I decide not to eat fish tonight.

We finally eat at ‘La Mina’, a small restaurant at the Plaza de Armas. We try the local speciality called mojito which is a mix of rum, soda, angasturas bitter and mint. We both feel totally trashed and return to our room whilst half of the city just makes its way out the bars and discos. Unfortunately the partying here seems to go on till 3 am and I am kept awake (now there is a surprise!) by loud groups of drunken dancers passing our street.