Across the Marlborough sound by ferry and to Wanganui

PHIL: Day 54/9 April.

Linda, Per’s wife, starts breakfast with some provocative statements about global warming and energy conservation which I feel I must take issue with but she seems to end up by supporting my case for suppressing ‘gut reaction’ solutions rather than more measured and globally considered options. Andy turns out to be one of the ‘no nuclear energy’ brigade whilst bemoaning reliance on finite resources, which I find hard to sympathise with. Then they eulogise the planting of trees in the same breath as wanting to eliminate all non-native vegetation from New Zealand’s forests –all very contradictory.

We head for our crossing from Picton to Wellington, but not before inspecting Per’s aircraft & boat. The aircraft, a Stemme ST-10 motor-glider, came new from the factory near Berlin, as did the yacht from the Gosport boatyard of C&N in 1988. Whilst inspecting the glider at Omaka grass airfield the remnants of an Easter vintage aircraft fly-in are dispersing including a Catalina flying-boat and a string of ‘warbirds’ taking off in formation. The new adjacent air museum funded by Peter Jackson is very impressively presented and great plans apparently exist for its future expansion.

Per’s yacht, moored at Picton, is absolutely pristine with every possible ‘extra’, but it is still hard to imagine how he and his wife alone sailed from Panama to NZ in it last year. As I drive with him to the mooring he muses the possibility of buying a vintage aircraft such as a Tiger Moth to add to his fleet.

The ferry leaves on time but turns back halfway through the Marlborough Sounds due to a sick passenger. The process of swiftly reversing the direction of such a relatively large vessel in a narrow waterway is impressive to watch .The crossing, eventually re-started an hour late, is in stark contrast to my last Cook Strait journey in 2000 when we were hove to for two hours in a southerly gale with mountainous seas.

Spend the night at a characterful hotel, the Rutland Arms, in Wanganui, a nicely preserved former port on the west coast of the North Island.

ALLIE: DAY 54: Monday, 9^th of April Halfway through our world-tour!

A visit to the airport, sailing across the Marlborough sounds and a drive up to

What a beautiful stunning autumn morning. I enjoy a run through Pers land. Here I could live!

After breakfast with dark German pumpernickel bread and jam we visit Pers hanger and take a look at his motor glider. Phils eyes grow bigger and spark of enthusiasm as we watch at least 10 vintage aircraft taking off from the airfield. We had just missed a large airshow that was held here over the weekend.

Nevertheless we manage to spot some really interesting old design like a flying boat and Nanchang fighter planes. The next door newly opened historic aircraft museum has loads of World War II aeroplanes on display. “Bad Germans!” Andy jokingly says to me. Hardly anybody knows that during that time more New Zealanders per capita had lost their lives fighting for the mother country England then any other nation in the world.

We rush out now for the harbour of Picton where Per shows us his lovely sailing boat “Cecilie” (named after their daughter). Then we check in for our ferry crossing. Just leaving Picton harbour for about 30min the ship suddenly stops and turns around: medical emergency! So now it’s already 2.30 and we still have more then 3 hrs to cross the Cook straight. But the weather is lovely and at least we can enjoy the sunshine and fresh air. The boat though is packed and we have to sit on the floor.

Thinking that it’s already half time of our trip, I must admit that I don’t feel the slightest exhaustion or have any desire to return home. Frankly, I could just go on like this travelling forever! And Phil and I are such a good team. We work so well together and even though we spent all day together now, we still have not had a single row. We even discover that our toothpaste has decided it’s half term – we finish our first tube this evening!

Sailing into Wellington harbour with the setting sun, then 2 ½ half hours drive up to the small town of Waganui where we bed ourselves at the historic 19^th century “Ruthland Arms Hotel” right in the centre of town. Our beer bells have definitely gone off by now (it’s already 8.30pm and we have not touched any alcohol on the ferry) and we enjoy a some good drinks. Alas we read too late the warning that says: “Please note that there is a 15% surcharge on all food and drinks on bank holidays!”

Dam, today was Easter Monday!